This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our tour of Sicily in September 2023. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from Don and MT’s trip to Sicily in 2005 will have “2005” at the beginning of the caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from Don and MT’s trip to Sicily in 2005 will have “2005” at the beginning of the caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.
Don woke at 6 am and woke MT at 7:05.
We went to breakfast (included) at the Seawater Hotel in Marsala.
We checked out of the hotel at 9 am.
When Don and MT had visited Sicily in 2005 with our friends Robert and Father Mike, the Italian liaison offer at Ft. Leavenworth (a friend of ours) had recommended we take a side trip from Palermo to Sferracavallo for a famous seafood lunch at Trattoria il Delfino.
May 31, 2005 - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Robert, MT, Don, and Father Mike enjoying the seafood served in family style.
When we told Lara and Chiara about the restaurant, they definitely wanted to go there. When planning our trip for 2023, we decided it worked out better to stop there for lunch on our way from Marsala (via Palermo) to Cefalù.
MT drove from Marsala to Sferracavallo, mostly on the A29 highway. According to , it was a trip of 112 km (69.6 mi), 1 hour 23 minutes by car via A29 dir (22 min), A29/E90 (55 min), and SS113 (8 min).
Sferracavallo (Sferracavaḍḍu in
Sicilian) is a hamlet (pop. 7,800) in the VII district of Palermo. The stretch
of the Tyrrhenian Sea (a portion of the Mediterranean that extends west of the
Italian peninsula) that bathes the village is at the northwestern end of the
Palermo coast, between the Capo Gallo promontory and Isola delle Femmine. Located
at the foot of Mount Capo Gallo, it has a fishing port but no beach. The presence
of a fishing village in this area is documented from the beginning of the 15th century,
when a tuna fishery was built on the northwest side of the marina. In 1417,
there is evidence of a dramatic assault by Barbary pirates against the
inhabitants. Efforts to integrate the village into the municipal territory of
Palermo continued until the first half of the 20th century.
We found Trattoria il Delfino around 11:20, but our reservation was for (first seating) at 12:30 pm. Don had checked their web site at https://www.trattoriaildelfino.com/#restaurant, found that reservations are by phone only and had included the phone number in his notes. So we had called ahead.
Wednesday, September 20, 2023, 11:24 AM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - exterior, with "Trattoria L'Ancora" next door.
The
Trattoria il Delfino (also known as Ristorante il Delfino), at Via Torretta 80, is a
historical jewel of Sicilian gastronomy. The well-known and appreciated fixed
menu based on fresh local fish has become a symbol of Sicilian cuisine. The tasting
menu, for just €35, features 9 starters, 3 first courses, and 2 second courses.
A trattoria is a small restaurant. In the past, a trattoria was a more casual dining location, while a ristorante was elegant and formal. Currently, the two terms can be used interchangeably, as trattorias have become a bit more formal.
A trattoria is a small restaurant. In the past, a trattoria was a more casual dining location, while a ristorante was elegant and formal. Currently, the two terms can be used interchangeably, as trattorias have become a bit more formal.
Delfino is Italian for "dolphin."
MT 11:24 AM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Don with sign at the entrance.
After using the restrooms at the restaurant, we walked around the town.
11:29 AM - Sferracavallo: view of waterfront to east of Trattoria il Delfino, with blue railing of promenade and Mount Capo Gallo in background.
MT 11:31 AM - Sferracavallo: view of waterfront promenade to east of Trattoria il Delfino and Monte Capo Gallo (mild telephoto 43 mm).
11:31 AM - Sferracavallo: view of waterfront to west of Trattoria il Delfino.
11:33 AM - Sferracavallo: "Spaghetteria da Marianna & [Andrea]" and "Randazzo Spaghetteria" restaurants to east of Trattoria il Delfino, with blue railing of promenade and Mount Capo Gallo in background.
A
spaghetteria is a spaghetti factory or shop or a restaurant serving
spaghetti dishes (and other things).
MT 11:34 AM - Sferracavallo: "Spaghetteria da Marianna & A[ndrea]" restaurant to east of Trattoria il Delfino (telephoto 78 mm).
MT and Don asked a local man about a church, and he directed us to the church dedicated to Saints Cosmas and Damien.
11:37 AM - Sferracavallo: view down side street off the waterfront promenade to Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien in square decorated with lights for festival.
The
Chiesa dei Santi Cosma e Damiano (Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian) is at
Via Torretta 2 in Sferracavallo.
In the 17th century, a cluster of houses known as Chiusa degli Amorello arose next to the tuna fishery, named for the first that owned it, who, at the end of that century decided to build the “church of the three bishops” in their alley, so called due to the fact that it stood near three different dioceses: those of Palermo, Monreale, and Mazara. In 1840, the Amorello church was no longer able to contain the enormous number of faithful in the village as it expanded from the original nucleus. Therefore, it was replaced by a new church dedicated to Saints Cosma and Damien, patron saints of fishermen, who were chosen as patrons of the village. The strong devotion to the two saints is still demonstrated today by the patronal fest held the last Sunday of September.
Saints Cosmas and Damian (Cosma e Damiano in Italian) were Roman doctors and twin brothers (ca. 260-ca. 303 AD). According to tradition, they were among the first generation of martyrs under the empire of Diocletian. Since they never wanted money or goods in exchange for their practice as doctors and healers, they were nicknamed Anargyroi (Ancient Greek for “without silver” or “non-mercenary”) saints. They were able to perform prodigious “healings” and “miracles.” Thanks to this fame, they became patron saints of doctors, dentists, pharmacists, and midwives, as well as barbers and hairdressers. Due to location of their birth and ministries in a port city, it is understandable that they would also be adopted as patron saints for fishermen.
The two were originally from Arabia, belonging to a rich family. Their father and mother converted to Christianity. After learning the medical art in the Roman province of Syria, they practiced their profession in the port city of Ægea (Aegeae), in the Roman province of Cilicia, on the Gulf of Alexandretta (present-day Turkey). During the persecutions of Christians promoted by the Roman emperor Diocletian (reigned 284-305 AD), they were arrested by the governor of Cilicia. They would therefore have suffered a ferocious martyrdom, so atrocious that in some martyrologies it is written that they were martyrs five times. According to some sources, they were first stoned, but the stones bounced off them; according to others, they were cruelly flogged, crucified and pelted with darts, but the spears bounced off without any harm to them; still other sources say they were thrown int the sea from a high cliff with a boulder hanging around their necks, but the bonds came untied and the brothers managed to save themselves and were again chained and placed in a fiery furnace, without being burned. They were then beheaded. The colt of the saints Cosmas and Damian, invoked as powerful miracle workers, began immediately after their deaths.
The anniversary of their deaths is celebrated on 26 or 27 September or the fourth Thursday of Easter. Catholic tradition originally established the liturgical commemoration of their feast day on 27 September. However, Pope Paul VI moved it to 26 September, making its celebration optional.
In the 17th century, a cluster of houses known as Chiusa degli Amorello arose next to the tuna fishery, named for the first that owned it, who, at the end of that century decided to build the “church of the three bishops” in their alley, so called due to the fact that it stood near three different dioceses: those of Palermo, Monreale, and Mazara. In 1840, the Amorello church was no longer able to contain the enormous number of faithful in the village as it expanded from the original nucleus. Therefore, it was replaced by a new church dedicated to Saints Cosma and Damien, patron saints of fishermen, who were chosen as patrons of the village. The strong devotion to the two saints is still demonstrated today by the patronal fest held the last Sunday of September.
Saints Cosmas and Damian (Cosma e Damiano in Italian) were Roman doctors and twin brothers (ca. 260-ca. 303 AD). According to tradition, they were among the first generation of martyrs under the empire of Diocletian. Since they never wanted money or goods in exchange for their practice as doctors and healers, they were nicknamed Anargyroi (Ancient Greek for “without silver” or “non-mercenary”) saints. They were able to perform prodigious “healings” and “miracles.” Thanks to this fame, they became patron saints of doctors, dentists, pharmacists, and midwives, as well as barbers and hairdressers. Due to location of their birth and ministries in a port city, it is understandable that they would also be adopted as patron saints for fishermen.
The two were originally from Arabia, belonging to a rich family. Their father and mother converted to Christianity. After learning the medical art in the Roman province of Syria, they practiced their profession in the port city of Ægea (Aegeae), in the Roman province of Cilicia, on the Gulf of Alexandretta (present-day Turkey). During the persecutions of Christians promoted by the Roman emperor Diocletian (reigned 284-305 AD), they were arrested by the governor of Cilicia. They would therefore have suffered a ferocious martyrdom, so atrocious that in some martyrologies it is written that they were martyrs five times. According to some sources, they were first stoned, but the stones bounced off them; according to others, they were cruelly flogged, crucified and pelted with darts, but the spears bounced off without any harm to them; still other sources say they were thrown int the sea from a high cliff with a boulder hanging around their necks, but the bonds came untied and the brothers managed to save themselves and were again chained and placed in a fiery furnace, without being burned. They were then beheaded. The colt of the saints Cosmas and Damian, invoked as powerful miracle workers, began immediately after their deaths.
The anniversary of their deaths is celebrated on 26 or 27 September or the fourth Thursday of Easter. Catholic tradition originally established the liturgical commemoration of their feast day on 27 September. However, Pope Paul VI moved it to 26 September, making its celebration optional.
11:37 AM - Sferracavallo: Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien - closer view of façade, decorated with lights for festival.
11:38 AM - Sferracavallo: Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien - interior, viewed from rear to apse, with statues of Saints Cosmas and Damien to left of main altar, and (temporary?) altar on right side of nave.
11:39 AM - Sferracavallo: Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien - main altar with painting of Cosmas and Damian in cupola above it.
11:39 AM - Sferracavallo: Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien - statues of Cosma and Damien to left of main altar.
MT 11:42 AM - Sferracavallo: Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien - painting of Cosmas and Damien in cupola above main altar (mild telephoto 30 mm).
11:39 AM - Sferracavallo: Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien - (temporary?) altar on right side of nave, with pictures below.
11:41 AM - Sferracavallo: Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien - pictures related to Cosmas and Damien below (temporary?) altar on right side of nave.
11:41 AM - Sferracavallo: Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien - center picture below (temporary?) altar showing Cosmas and Damien being welcomed into heaven by God (Father and Holy Spirit) and angels.
11:42 AM - Sferracavallo: Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien - pictures related to Cosmas and Damien below (temporary?) altar on right side of nave.
11:42 AM - Sferracavallo: Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien - stained glass window above door at rear of nave, showing Cosmas and Damian kneeling before cross with snakes winding round its base (caduceus, symbol of medicine).
MT 11:43 AM - Sferracavallo: Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien - stained glass window above door at rear of nave, showing Cosmas and Damian kneeling before cross with snakes winding round its base (caduceus, symbol of medicine) (telephoto 81 mm).
11:42 AM - Sferracavallo: street near Church of Saints Cosmas and Damien with more festival decorations, to be lighted for the big procession on Sunday.
11:44 AM - Sferracavallo: sign on that street for "Wanted: Chicken & Pizza" at
fast food restaurant by that name at Via Torretta 3 (next door to church).
11:45 AM - Sferracavallo: sign on that street with schedule of events for the 176th year of festival, 16-27 September, 2023, showing Solemn Procession of Relics of Saints Cosma and Damian on Sunday, 17 September, and (in ALL CAPS) Solemn Procession of Saints Cosmas and Damian on Sunday, 24 September.
11:45 AM - Sferracavallo: monument with statues of Saints Cosmas and Damian along waterfront promenade on our way back to Trattoria il Delfino.
MT 11:50 AM - Sferracavallo: MT with monument with statues of Saints Cosmas and Damian along waterfront promenade on our way back to Trattoria il Delfino.
We arrived back at Trattoria il Delfino just before noon.
11:53 AM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - exterior, with "Trattoria L'Ancora" next door in foreground.
We started the Tasting Menu at 12:18 pm, immediately after being seated. They began serving one course after another, often before we had finished the previous course. It was not until 12:50 that we had enough of a breather to take a photo of the menu posted outside the restaurant, which helped us to know what we were eating. This menu was different from the one we had in 2005 and from the one on their web site.
MT 12:52 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - "Menu Degustazione" (Tasting Menu), which translates from Italian to English as follows:
Appetizers:
Seafood salad with oil and lemon
Swordfish caponata with eggplant
Prawn cocktail in pink sauce
Mussels popped with black pepper
[line whited out]
Beccafico sardine flan
Fried squid
Fried shrimp
Oyster
Our Firsts:
Spaghetti with clams
Chef's risotto
Our fresh pasta with grouper, cherry tomatoes and mint
Our Seconds:
Grilled catch of the day
Grilled shrimp or
1/2 steamed lobster
Lemon sorbet
The Cellar:
Cantine Paolini 'Inzolia' wine
Water and drinks"
We got almost all these dishes plus a bottle of wine and 3 bottles of water (one frizante [sparkling] for Chiara) and 2 plain.
MT 12:18 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plates 1 and 2: seafood salad and swordfish caponata with eggplant (our first two appetizers, served simultaneously), with plate of bread.
12:22 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plate 3: fried squid.
12:22 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plate 4: oysters.
MT 12:24 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plates 4 and 3, served simultaneously: oysters and fried squid.
01931 12:27 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plate 5: swordfish caponata with eggplant.
12:27 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plate 6: prawn cocktail in pink sauce.
MT 12:28 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plates 5 and 6, served simultaneously: prawn cocktail in pink sauce and swordfish caponata with eggplant.
MT 12:34 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plate 7: fried shrimp.
MT 12:38 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plate 8: mussels "popped" with black pepper, and lemon slices.
12:38 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Lara and Chiara with remains of mussels (in serving bowl and shells on another plate) and shrimp.
Before the "Primi" (First) courses the waiter brought new plates. (It was during this pause that we had time to take a photo of the menu.)
12:55 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plate 9: fresh pasta with grouper, cherry tomatoes and mint.
12:56 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plate 10: Chef's risotto.
MT 12:58 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plates 9 and 10: fresh pasta with grouper, cherry tomatoes, and mint and Chef's risotto, since they arrived together.
12:59 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plate 11: spaghetti with clams.
1:00 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Serving of Plate 11: spaghetti with clams, on Don's plate.
1:15 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - our bottle of Cantine Paolini "Inzolia" wine.
When MT went to pay, they asked why we didn't get the lobster for a Second Course. The truth was that we were all too full to try it. However, we did go ahead and get the other "Secondi" choice and the dessert.
MT 1:31 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Plate 12: grilled catch of the day, looked breaded and fried.
MT 1:43 PM - Sferracavallo: Trattoria il Delfino - Desert: lemon sorbet and our wine bottle.
2:43 PM - Sferracavallo: outside Trattoria il Delfino - view of promenade and more of town to west with mountains.
Then we drove east to Cefalù, continuing on the minor road SS113.
4:14 PM - Cefalù: first sight of Cefalù - Rocca di Cefalù at right, but just missed view of the "snail" effect of Cathedral with twin towers (the head of the snail), barely visible through railing above thee approaching car, next to rounded mountain (the shell) visible through brief breaks in railing, trees, and buildings along street.
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Cefalù; view of Cathedral and mountain thought to look like a snail (By No
machine-readable author provided. P tasso assumed (based on copyright claims).
- No machine-readable source provided. Own work assumed (based on copyright
claims)., CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=662948).
When we checked into the Artemis Hotel at Via Roma in Cefalù, we asked about dinner. However, they said they had no dinner, since the hotel had no restaurant. They\pointed out that our itinerary said Bed and Breakfast. We didn't mind, since we were still full from our big lunch in Sferracavallo.
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