This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our tour of Sicily in September 2023. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from Don and MT’s trip to Sicily in 2005 will have “2005” at the beginning of the caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from Don and MT’s trip to Sicily in 2005 will have “2005” at the beginning of the caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.
We woke around 6 am and went to breakfast buffet in Hotel Garibaldi at 8:30.
Then MT drove us to Monreale to see the famous Monreale Cathedral.
Monreale is a town (pop.
39,000) in the Metropolitan City of Palermo. It is located on the slope of
Monte Caputo, overlooking the very fertile valley called “La Conca d’oro” (the
Golden Shell). The town is about 7 km (4 mi) south of Palermo. "Monreale" is a contraction of Monte Reale (Royal Mountain).
Monreale
forms its own archdiocese and is home to Monreale Cathedral. After the
occupation of Palermo by the Arabs in the 9th century, the Bishop of Palermo
was forced to move his seat outside the capital city. The role of cathedral was
assigned to a modest little church in the nearby village later known as Monreale.
After the Norman conquest in 1072, Christians took back the former Palermo
Cathedral. The village’s role as the temporary center of the diocese probably
played a part in the decision of the Norman King William II to build a cathedral here.
Under William II, Monreale was the seat of the metropolitan archbishop of
Sicily and from then on exerted a significant influence over Sicily.
Monreale Cathedral (Italian: Cattedrale di Santa Maria Nuova di Monreale or Duomo di Monreale) is a Catholic church in the town of Monreale. One of the greatest existent examples of Norman architecture, it was begun in 1174 by King William II of Sicily. In 1182, the church, dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, was by a papal bull elevated to the rank of a metropolitan cathedral as the seat of the Diocese of Monreale, which was elevated to the Archdiocese of Monreale in 1183. Construction works on the cathedral, including an annexed abbey, were not completed until 1267.
The
west façade is relatively plain, with one of its two towers (on the
left) unfinished. Due to the collapse of the original portico, it was replaced
by the present large portico, which was built in 1770. Its Neoclassical style
clashes with its surroundings. The top of the façade is from the Norman period.
The
Porta del Paradiso (Gate of Paradise) is the main portal of the
cathedral (c. 1186). The bronze door (1185), commissioned by William II, was
made by the Italian sculptor Bonanno Pisano. The west portal is the largest
bronze door of its age at 7.8 m by 3.7 m. It has 42 elaboratively framed biblical
scenes and other images. The first 16 panels from the bottom depict episodes of
Genesis, while episodes of the New Testament are found in the 5 upper orders joined
by the 6 panels of the 4th and 5th bands, depicting the twelve prophets, for a
total of 40 panels. To these are added the two lower compartments with two
pairs of lions and griffins. The lion and griffon were Norman symbols.
MT 11:03 AM (Cropped) - Monreale: Cathedral - panel of Cain and Abel, on main entrance door, bottom right (from inside).
Most
of the episodes depicted on this door are accompanied by brief descriptions in
Latin. However, the one about Cain and Abel has the inscription “Caim
uccise frate suo Abel” (Cain killed his brother Abel), which is among the first
words to be written in the nascent Italian language.
The
nave has three aisles separated by two rows of nine columns with richly
carved Corinthian capitals that support pointed Gothic arches. The central
aisle has a beautifully painted open truss roof.
The
half dome of the central apse has a colossal half-length mosaic of Christ
Pantocrator (Christ Almighty, or Ruler of All), with a seated Virgin and
Child below it. This is a typical half-height portrait of Christ as in Heaven. His
right hand is blessing the viewer from the apse of the cathedral, while his
left hand holds an open book. In this case, the book is open to John 8:12 (“I
am the light of the world. Whoever follows me will not wander in darkness.”). The
left page of the book has the verse in Latin, and the right has it in Greek.
The Greek words on the left and right of Christ’s head mean “Jesus Christ the
Pantocrator.”
The
marble floor of the nave dates from the time of the original building,
with only a few refurbishments in 1560.
11:13 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - mosaics above arches on north side of nave, with story of Noah and the Ark (part near left end): Noah Builds the Ark, The Animals Enter the Ark, Noah's Flood (Noah Greets the Returning Dove), The Animals Leave the Ark.
Mosaics
above arches on north side of nave (left to right): Noah Builds the Ark, The Animals Enter
the Ark, Noah’s Flood, Noah Greets the Returning Dove, The Animals Leave the
Ark, God Sends the Rainbow to Noah, Drunkenness of Noah, Building the Tower of
Babel, The Three Angels Visit Abraham, Hospitality of Abraham.
11:13 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - mosaics above arches on north side of nave, with rest of story of Noah and the Ark, followed by other Old Testament scenes (near right end): The Animals Enter the Ark, Noah's Flood (Noah Greets the Returning Dove), The Animals Leave the Ark, God Sends the Rainbow to Noah, Drunkenness of Noah, Building the Tower of Babel, The Three Angels Visit Abraham, Hospitality of Abraham.
Mosaics
above arches on south side of nave (left to right): God Orders Abraham to Sacrifice
Isaac, Sacrifice of Isaac, Rebecca Waters the Camels, Rebecca’s Journey, Isaac
and Esau, Isaac Blesses Jacob, Jacob Flees, Jacob’s Dream, Jacob Wrestles with
the Angel.
2005 - Monreale: Cathedral - mosaics above arches on south side of nave, with other Old Testament scenes (far left end): God Orders Abraham to Sacrifice Isaac, Sacrifice of Isaac, Rebecca Waters the Camels (Note Adam and Eve above these).
Then we all went to visit the cloister.
The
cloister, located on the south side of the cathedral, measures 47 x 47 meters.
Completed around 1200 in the Normal-Arab style, the cloister is a remnant of
the former Benedictine abbey, which was also built at the order of William II.
The 26 Arab-inspired arches on each of the four sides are supported by a total
of 228 small double columns with Romanesque capitals. The elaborate columns are
either smooth or inlaid with colored stones, no two pairs alike. In the corners
are four smaller columns with relief work.
The sculptures of the capitals on the double columns feature plants, whimsical animals, mystical beasts, acrobats, archers, griffons, and other fantastic creatures, as well as biblical themes (including narrative cycles from the Old and New Testaments). The capitals were carved in great detail from white marble, but over time they have acquired a thick sandstone patina that almost entirely covers them.
The sculptures of the capitals on the double columns feature plants, whimsical animals, mystical beasts, acrobats, archers, griffons, and other fantastic creatures, as well as biblical themes (including narrative cycles from the Old and New Testaments). The capitals were carved in great detail from white marble, but over time they have acquired a thick sandstone patina that almost entirely covers them.
11:15 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - Lara, Chiara, and MT at the entrance to the Ticket Office for the "Chiostro dei Benedettini" (Cloister of the Benedictines).
We began out circuit of the cloister with its west side.
11:19 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view down columns of west side to the south side, above which rises a wing of the original monastery.
11:20 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - double capital on west side with a lion attacking a pig as a Norman knight and Arab warrior (with round shield) watch.
11:20 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - double capital on west side.
This capital, on the west side of cloister depicts part of the stories of Noah
and his sons coinciding with the nave’s mosaics after the ark; this north face
shows winemakers in Noah’s vineyard at the left and the building of the Tower of
Babel on the right. The winemakers and the Babel craftsmen are all portrayed
with special care and great richness of detail.
11:21 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - double capital on west side with a centaur.
Internet https://cenobium.isti.cnr.it/monreale/capitals/W/W6Sh80
identifies this as the north face of a capital on west side of cloister with Annunciation
of Mary and a centaur.
The
north face of this capital depicts a group of apostles.
The east face of that capital depicts the Presentation of the Baby Jesus in the Temple.
11:22 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - same double capital with that north face around to right and the east face to the left.
The
fountain in the southwest corner of the cloister garden is carved like a
stylized palm tree. It was used by the monks to wash their hands before
entering the refectory to eat. The symbolism of its various elements alludes to
the rite of baptism.
11:23 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view from southwest corner, near fountain, of palm tree in center of cloister garden toward north side (with cupola and south transept of cathedral on top right) and east side; to the left of the cupola, we could see people walking around up high as they toured the cathedral roof.
11:23 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - columns with inlaid mosaics on south side, with east side in background.
11:23 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - columns with inlaid mosaics on south side, with east side in background.
11:24 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view, from more columns with inlaid mosaics on south side, toward northeast corner, with south transept of cathedral above it.
11:24 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view more columns with inlaid mosaics on south side, alternating with plain columns, with south transept of cathedral visible above east side; Lara in near background, and MT behind plain columns looking at column with spiraling bands of mosaics.
1188 MT 11:24 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - Chiara and Lara wave from more columns with inlaid mosaics on south side, alternating with plain columns.
11:25 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view, from south side, toward northwest corner, where we had entered the cloister, with south bell tower and cupola; to either side of the cupola, we could again see people walking around up high as they toured the cathedral roof.
11:25 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view, from south side, of east side with alternating columns with and without mosaics; good view of Arab-inspired arches; Lara at far right.
11:25 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view, from east side, near southeast corner, back down south side to fountain in southwest corner.
At the left, on the north face of this capital on the south side of the cloister, is the scene of Emperor Constantine and his mother Helena presenting
the True Cross. In 326-28 AD, Helena made a trip to Palestine. While there, she ordered a temple dedicated to Venus or Jupiter, which had been built over the supposed site of Jesus' tomb near Calvary, to be destroyed. According to tradition, she chose this site to begin excavating, which led to the recovery of three different crosses. When a woman near death touched the first two crosses, her condition did not change, but when she touched the third cross she suddenly recovered. So Helena declared that one to be the True Cross of Jesus. (Another Internet source identifies this as King Roger II and this son William I, both crowned with episcopal cross, representing Apostolic Legateship of Norman Kings of Sicily, between them. However, the first identification seems more likely.)
Around the corner, on the west face of the capital, is a scene with a bearded figure at the left and a crowned figure (possibly King David) on the right.
11:27 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - capital on east side with Atlantes.
In
architecture, Atlantes, the plural of Atlas*, are stone architectural
supports in the form of muscular men. They have elevated arms and often have
the upper part of the body bend forward to reflect the weight of the load on
their shoulders. Sometimes, they may have elevated arms
*In Greek mythology, Zeus condemned Atlas to stand at the western edge of the Earth and hold up the sky on his shoulders. A common misconception today is that Atlas was forced to hold the Earth on his shoulders, but Classical art shows him holding the celestial spheres, not the terrestrial globe. (Atlant can also refer to the image of a muscular, naked male in Roman and Greek architecture.)
11:27 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - capital on east side, with Adam and Eve with the serpent on face at left.
Adam and Eve are shown naked next to the Tree of Knowledge. Eve reaches
for the forbidden fruit.
11:30 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - west face of capital on north side, with part of the biblical story of Samson; this face shows the wedding feast of Samson at the left and Samson slaughtering Philistines on the right; around the corner to the right is a scene about Samson in Gaza.
This capital depicts episodes from the life on Samson. The west face of the
double capital combines two separate incidents. The pilar in the middle has his
name as "SANSON." On the left is the biblical story of the wedding
feast of Samson and a Philistine woman (Judges, Chapter 14), where he tells 30
of his Philistine guests a riddle, giving them seven days to find the answer.
They are about to fail but then extort the answer from his wife. When Samson
discovers this, he kills the 30 men, and his wife marries the companion who had
been his best man. On the right, Samson slaughters those Philistines. Later on (Judges,
Chapter 15). Samson slays a thousand Philistines using the jawbone of an ass.
The Philistines are also designated with an inscription “FILIIS STEIS.”
Around the corner to the right is another scene from the biblical story of Samson (Judges 16: 1-3): “Once Samson went to Gaza, where he saw a prostitute and visited her. The people of Gaza were told, ‘Samson has come here,’ and they surrounded him with an ambush at the city gate all night long. And all the night they waited, saying, ‘At morning light we will kill him.’ Samson lay there until midnight. Then he rose at midnight, seized the doors of the city gate and the two gateposts, and tore them loose, bar and all. He hoisted them on his shoulders and carried them to the top of the ridge opposite Hebron.”
Around the corner to the right is another scene from the biblical story of Samson (Judges 16: 1-3): “Once Samson went to Gaza, where he saw a prostitute and visited her. The people of Gaza were told, ‘Samson has come here,’ and they surrounded him with an ambush at the city gate all night long. And all the night they waited, saying, ‘At morning light we will kill him.’ Samson lay there until midnight. Then he rose at midnight, seized the doors of the city gate and the two gateposts, and tore them loose, bar and all. He hoisted them on his shoulders and carried them to the top of the ridge opposite Hebron.”
At
the far right corner of the capital is Samson carrying the gate away. The face to the right of
that corner also depicts two scenes from the life of Samson. On the left, after Samson tells the secret of his strength (his unshorn head), he is captured and blinded. On the right, he is once more endowed with his strength, which he uses to pull down the house of the Philistines, killing both them and himself. The Latin inscription between these two scenes reads “P<RO> ANIMA MEA” (For the salvation
of my soul).
11:30 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - another face of capital on north side, with another part of the biblical story of Samson; on the corner at the left is Samson carrying the gate, and on the pilar at the center of the face at the right is the inscription ending in "ANIMA MEA." The scene to the left of that pilar shows Samson being captured and blinded, and the one to the right shows Samson pulling down the house on the Philistines.
11:32 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - more palm trees in the cloister garden, one with white ball in center (telephoto 130 mm).
Having completed our circuit of the cloister, Don and MT elected to take a tour of the cathedral roof. As we went around the cloister, we had seen people walking around up there. Earlier, when visiting the cathedral interior, we had seen a counter for getting tickets for this. Lara and Chiara stayed in the cloister at ground level.
At
the southwest corner of the nave is an access to 180 steps that lead up to the cathedral
roof. Some passages are narrow and cramped but allow visitors to walk along
the upper walls around the church. Walkways also lead around the apse of the
cathedral.
11:37 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - painting of Madonna and Child on wall near ticket counter for tour of roof.
The
Madonna Hodegetria (Virgin and Child) panel painting was, according to
tradition, originally commissioned for private devotion by King William II of Sicily
(ruled 1166-1189), founder of the Monreale Cathedral. It is one of the earliest
examples of medieval painting in Sicily. For a long time, it was considered an
icon, but recent research recognized that it represents a Romanesque panel strictly
linked to the Greek manner, dating from the end of the 12th century to the
first half of the 13th century. The panel is a variant of the classic Hodegetria:
it represents the Virgin holding the Christ Child on her left side while
pointing to him with her right hand. The Greek hodegetria means “she who
points the way."
11:39 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - view down onto top of baptismal font we passed while going up the steps to the roof roof.
11:42 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view down into cloister, toward south side with remains of original monastery; square structure in southwest corner encloses the fountain.
MT 11:42 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view down onto cupola on south side of cathedral (possibly the baptistery?).
11:42 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view down, from narrow walkway, onto cupola on south side of cathedral (possibly the baptistery?) and cloister garden.
MT 11:44 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - MT at door of walkway with arrow pointing right to narrow interior passage.
The
exterior of the cathedral apse has varied decorations formed by bright tufa (a variety of limestone) and black lava stone.
MT 11:46 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view, from top of apse, of city of Monreale (telephoto 116 mm).
11:51 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - wider view of that side of apse, with mosaic decorations; MT's elbow at right, as she took her photo of the same.
MT 11:53 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view, in same direction as Don's 11:47 photo, of nearby Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and city uphill.
MT 11:54 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - Don squeezing past other visitors near small belfry at top of unfinished north bell tower.
11:54 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - another view down into Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, with closer view of fountain (mild telephoto 58 mm).
Back together with Lara and Chiara, we must have had lunch (given the time between photos). Then, Lara wanted to visit the Cathedral's gift shop/book store. On the way there, we passed through the Arco degli Angeli.
1:00 PM - Monreale: Cathedral - MT, Lara, and Chiara walking down narrow street toward Arco degli Angeli.
The Arco
degli Angeli
(Arch of the Angels) is on a narrow pedestrian walkway, adjacent to the
cathedral (to the left of the entrance), that leads to the intricate,
polychromatic stonework decorating the cathedral’s triple apse. It connects the
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and Via Arcivescovado (Archbishop Street). Passing
through the arch, pedestrians can breathe in the Arab-Normal culture imprinted
on the marble walls.
Don joked that they were "arch angels."
The sign
on one interior wall of the arch reads “All those people who devotedly recite a Hail
Mary to this image of piety will earn 40 days of indulgence granted by
Monsignor Giovanni Roano, Archbishop of Monreale.” In December 2016, the
Monreale Press reported that the large slate depicting the Madonna had been
missing from the arch for over 90 days and that a small chapel almost adjacent
to the treasure rooms had preserved the effigy of Mary enthroned with Child, with
two little angels crowning the depiction.
Giovanni Roano e Correionero (1615-1703) was appointed Archbishop of Monreale in 1673; he had been Archbishop of Cefalù since 1660.
1:03 PM - Monreale: Cathedral - view, down pedestrian walkway from Arco degli Angeli, to cathedral apse, with turret at top.
Monreale: exterior of cathedral apse (By Bjs (Own Work) at https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Monreale-bjs-17.jpg).
Monreale: exterior of cathedral apse (By Ludvig14 (Own Work) at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Monreale_Cathedral_009_6460.jpg).
Back in Palermo, we asked the desk clerk at Hotel Garibaldi about a nearby church where we could attend a Saturday evening mass, since we would have a long car trip on Sunday. He recommended the Church of St. Peter and Paul, which was only a few blocks away (2 blocks east to Via Roma, then south 5-6 blocks, then right about 1 block).
The
Chiesa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo (Church of Saints Peter and Paul) is a
marvelous piece of Renaissance architecture. Highlights include its façade and three
frescoed apses. The façade is made of blocks of volcanic tufa stone; it has
three entrance doors with pointed arches. The central door shows Gothic
influences; above its pointed arch is a coat of arms with the symbols of St.
Peter (tiara and keys) and St. Paul (a sword). On a ledge above the lower part
of the church are the names of the saints to whom it is dedicated, along with
the year of its construction. The interior consists of three naves. The central
apse has a painting of St. Peter, Jesus, and St. Paul; on the left are David,
the prophets Jeremiah and Ezekiel; on the right are Isaiah, Daniel, and
Solomon; above, there are archangels Gabriel and Michael. The left apse is
dedicated to St. Benedict of Norica, and the right apse is dedicated to the
Madonna del Perpetuo Soccorso (Madonna of Perpetual Help).
Construction of the church was completed in 1879. From 1880 to 1940, the church was the chapel of the nearby Benedictine monastery. In 1941, due to the reduced number of nuns, it was ceded to the Archdiocese of Palermo and became a parish church.
Construction of the church was completed in 1879. From 1880 to 1940, the church was the chapel of the nearby Benedictine monastery. In 1941, due to the reduced number of nuns, it was ceded to the Archdiocese of Palermo and became a parish church.
MT 3:53 PM - Palermo: Church of St. Peter and Paul - "bride" and her father walking from car toward church (mild telephoto 68 mm).
At first, we thought a wedding was about to take place, but soon found that it was an elaborate 25th anniversary celebration, with all the appearance of a wedding and a renewal of marriage vows. Apparently, this type of celebration was quite normal. This took place in the framework of a normal Saturday evening mass.
MT 5:46 PM - Palermo: Church of St. Peter and Paul - façade, with clear view of ledge above the lower part of the church, with the names of the saints to whom the church is dedicated, along with the year of its construction (in Roman numerals); above the pointed arch of the central door is the coat of arms with the symbols of St. Peter and St. Paul.
MT 5:54 PM - Palermo: Church of St. Peter and Paul - main altar in central apse (mild telephoto 53 mm).
MT 6:32 PM - Palermo: Church of St. Peter and Paul - "bride" and "groom" with priest at altar (telephoto 96 mm).
Back at Hotel Garibaldi, we went to dinner, included in half-board, at 7:30 pm. As with all but one of the four hotels on our itinerary, we had to pay extra for wine.

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