Monday, September 4, 2023

16 Sep PALERMO and Monreale


This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our tour of Sicily in September 2023. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from Don and MT’s trip to Sicily in 2005 will have “2005” at the beginning of the caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

We woke around 6 am and went to breakfast buffet in Hotel Garibaldi at 8:30.

Then MT drove us to Monreale to see the famous Monreale Cathedral.

Monreale is a town (pop. 39,000) in the Metropolitan City of Palermo. It is located on the slope of Monte Caputo, overlooking the very fertile valley called “La Conca d’oro” (the Golden Shell). The town is about 7 km (4 mi) south of Palermo. "Monreale" is a contraction of Monte Reale (Royal Mountain).
Monreale forms its own archdiocese and is home to Monreale Cathedral. After the occupation of Palermo by the Arabs in the 9th century, the Bishop of Palermo was forced to move his seat outside the capital city. The role of cathedral was assigned to a modest little church in the nearby village later known as Monreale. After the Norman conquest in 1072, Christians took back the former Palermo Cathedral. The village’s role as the temporary center of the diocese probably played a part in the decision of the Norman King William II to build a cathedral here. Under William II, Monreale was the seat of the metropolitan archbishop of Sicily and from then on exerted a significant influence over Sicily.

Monreale Cathedral (Italian: Cattedrale di Santa Maria Nuova di Monreale or Duomo di Monreale) is a Catholic church in the town of Monreale. One of the greatest existent examples of Norman architecture, it was begun in 1174 by King William II of Sicily. In 1182, the church, dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, was by a papal bull elevated to the rank of a metropolitan cathedral as the seat of the Diocese of Monreale, which was elevated to the Archdiocese of Monreale in 1183. Construction works on the cathedral, including an annexed abbey, were not completed until 1267.
The church is 102 m (335 ft) long and 40 m (131 ft) wide. It is one of the most important attractions in Sicily.
 

Saturday, ‎September 16, ‎2023, ‏‎10:53 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - west  façade, from Piazza Gugliermo II square with vendors.


2005 - Monreale: Cathedral - west  façade, from street.

The west façade is relatively plain, with one of its two towers (on the left) unfinished. Due to the collapse of the original portico, it was replaced by the present large portico, which was built in 1770. Its Neoclassical style clashes with its surroundings. The top of the façade is from the Norman period.
 

MT 10:54 AM (Cropped) - Monreale: Cathedral - west portico with main entrance door.



2005 - Monreale: Cathedral - main entrance, under portico of façade, with bronze doors closed.

The Porta del Paradiso (Gate of Paradise) is the main portal of the cathedral (c. 1186). The bronze door (1185), commissioned by William II, was made by the Italian sculptor Bonanno Pisano. The west portal is the largest bronze door of its age at 7.8 m by 3.7 m. It has 42 elaboratively framed biblical scenes and other images. The first 16 panels from the bottom depict episodes of Genesis, while episodes of the New Testament are found in the 5 upper orders joined by the 6 panels of the 4th and 5th bands, depicting the twelve prophets, for a total of 40 panels. To these are added the two lower compartments with two pairs of lions and griffins. The lion and griffon were Norman symbols.


11:02 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - main entrance door, bottom left (from inside).



MT 11:01 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - main entrance door, middle left (from inside).



11:02 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - main entrance door, top left (from inside).



11:03 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - main entrance door, top right (from inside).



11:03 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - main entrance door, bottom right (from inside).



MT 11:03 AM (Cropped) - Monreale: Cathedral - panel of Cain and Abel, on main entrance door, bottom right (from inside).

Most of the episodes depicted on this door are accompanied by brief descriptions in Latin. However, the one about Cain and Abel has the inscription “Caim uccise frate suo Abel” (Cain killed his brother Abel), which is among the first words to be written in the nascent Italian language.


‏‎11:00 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - nave, from rear to apse.

The nave has three aisles separated by two rows of nine columns with richly carved Corinthian capitals that support pointed Gothic arches. The central aisle has a beautifully painted open truss roof.


‏‎11:01 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - wood ceiling of nave, from rear to apse.



MT ‏‎11:01 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - Christ Pantocrator mosaic in central apse.

The half dome of the central apse has a colossal half-length mosaic of Christ Pantocrator (Christ Almighty, or Ruler of All), with a seated Virgin and Child below it. This is a typical half-height portrait of Christ as in Heaven. His right hand is blessing the viewer from the apse of the cathedral, while his left hand holds an open book. In this case, the book is open to John 8:12 (“I am the light of the world. Whoever follows me will not wander in darkness.”). The left page of the book has the verse in Latin, and the right has it in Greek. The Greek words on the left and right of Christ’s head mean “Jesus Christ the Pantocrator.”
 

MT ‏‎11:04 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - marble floor of nave near entrance.

The marble floor of the nave dates from the time of the original building, with only a few refurbishments in 1560.


11:09 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - confessional on north side of nave.



11:10 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - blonde Virgin and Child on north side of nave.



11:13 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - mosaics above arches on north side of nave, with story of Noah and the Ark (part near left end): Noah Builds the Ark, The Animals Enter the Ark, Noah's Flood (Noah Greets the Returning Dove), The Animals Leave the Ark.

Mosaics above arches on north side of nave (left to right): Noah Builds the Ark, The Animals Enter the Ark, Noah’s Flood, Noah Greets the Returning Dove, The Animals Leave the Ark, God Sends the Rainbow to Noah, Drunkenness of Noah, Building the Tower of Babel, The Three Angels Visit Abraham, Hospitality of Abraham.


11:13 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - mosaics above arches on north side of nave, with rest of story of Noah and the Ark, followed by other Old Testament scenes (near right end): The Animals Enter the Ark, Noah's Flood (Noah Greets the Returning Dove), The Animals Leave the Ark, God Sends the Rainbow to Noah, Drunkenness of Noah, Building the Tower of Babel, The Three Angels Visit Abraham, Hospitality of Abraham.



12:00 PM - Monreale: Cathedral - mosaics above arches on south side of nave, with other Old Testament scenes (far left end). 

Mosaics above arches on south side of nave (left to right): God Orders Abraham to Sacrifice Isaac, Sacrifice of Isaac, Rebecca Waters the Camels, Rebecca’s Journey, Isaac and Esau, Isaac Blesses Jacob, Jacob Flees, Jacob’s Dream, Jacob Wrestles with the Angel.
 

2005 - Monreale: Cathedral - mosaics above arches on south side of nave, with other Old Testament scenes (far left end): God Orders Abraham to Sacrifice Isaac, Sacrifice of Isaac, Rebecca Waters the Camels  (Note Adam and Eve above these).



11:10 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - mosaics above arches on south side of nave, with other Old Testament scenes (far right end): Isaac Blesses Jacob, Jacob Flees, Jacob’s Dream, Jacob Wrestles with the Angel.



11:11 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - nave from apse at front to west entrance at rear, with mosaics all around and wood ceiling.



11:12 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - pilar with tiny mosaics in nave near west entrance at rear.

Then we all went to visit the cloister.

The cloister, located on the south side of the cathedral, measures 47 x 47 meters. Completed around 1200 in the Normal-Arab style, the cloister is a remnant of the former Benedictine abbey, which was also built at the order of William II. The 26 Arab-inspired arches on each of the four sides are supported by a total of 228 small double columns with Romanesque capitals. The elaborate columns are either smooth or inlaid with colored stones, no two pairs alike. In the corners are four smaller columns with relief work.
The sculptures of the capitals on the double columns feature plants, whimsical animals, mystical beasts, acrobats, archers, griffons, and other fantastic creatures, as well as biblical themes (including narrative cycles from the Old and New Testaments). The capitals were carved in great detail from white marble, but over time they have acquired a thick sandstone patina that almost entirely covers them.
 

11:15 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - Lara, Chiara, and MT at the entrance to the Ticket Office for the "Chiostro dei Benedettini" (Cloister of the Benedictines).



11:19 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister  - view straight ahead from entrance to north side.



11:18 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view down west side from near entrance.

We began out circuit of the cloister with its west side.


11:19 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view down columns of west side to the south side, above which rises a wing of the original monastery.



11:20 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - double capital on west side with a lion attacking a pig as a Norman knight and Arab warrior (with round shield) watch.



11:20 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - double capital on west side.

This capital, on the west side of cloister depicts part of the stories of Noah and his sons coinciding with the nave’s mosaics after the ark; this north face shows winemakers in Noah’s vineyard at the left and the building of the Tower of Babel on the right. The winemakers and the Babel craftsmen are all portrayed with special care and great richness of detail.


11:21 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - double capital on west side with men attacking a bull.



11:21 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - double capital on west side with a centaur.

Internet https://cenobium.isti.cnr.it/monreale/capitals/W/W6Sh80 identifies this as the north face of a capital on west side of cloister with Annunciation of Mary and a centaur.


11:22 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - north face of double capital on west side.

The north face of this capital depicts a group of apostles.

The east face of that capital depicts the Presentation of the Baby Jesus in the Temple. 



11:22 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - same double capital with that north face around to right and the east face to the left.



11:23 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - fountain at corner between west and south sides.

The fountain in the southwest corner of the cloister garden is carved like a stylized palm tree. It was used by the monks to wash their hands before entering the refectory to eat. The symbolism of its various elements alludes to the rite of baptism. 


11:23 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view from southwest corner, near fountain, of palm tree in center of cloister garden toward north side (with cupola and south transept of cathedral on top right) and east side; to the left of the cupola, we could see people walking around up high as they toured the cathedral roof.



11:23 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - columns with inlaid mosaics on south side, with east side in background.



11:23 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - columns with inlaid mosaics on south side, with east side in background.



11:24 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view, from more columns with inlaid mosaics on south side, toward northeast corner, with south transept of cathedral above it.



11:24 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view more columns with inlaid mosaics on south side, alternating with plain columns, with south transept of cathedral visible above east side; Lara in near background, and MT behind plain columns looking at column with spiraling bands of mosaics.



1188 MT 11:24 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - Chiara and Lara wave from more columns with inlaid mosaics on south side, alternating with plain columns.



11:25 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view, from south side, toward northwest corner, where we had entered the cloister, with south bell tower and cupola; to either side of the cupola, we could again see people walking around up high as they toured the cathedral roof.



11:25 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view, from south side, of east side with alternating columns with and without mosaics; good view of Arab-inspired arches; Lara at far right.



11:25 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view, from east side, near southeast corner, back down south side to fountain in southwest corner.



11:26 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - capital on  south side.

At the left, on the north face of this capital on the south side of the cloister, is the scene of Emperor Constantine and his mother Helena presenting the True Cross. In 326-28 AD, Helena made a trip to Palestine. While there, she ordered a temple dedicated to Venus or Jupiter, which had been built over the supposed site of Jesus' tomb near Calvary, to be destroyed. According to tradition, she chose this site to begin excavating, which led to the recovery of three different crosses. When a woman near death touched the first two crosses, her condition did not change, but when she touched the third cross she suddenly recovered. So Helena declared that one to be the True Cross of Jesus. (Another Internet source identifies this as King Roger II and this son William I, both crowned with episcopal cross, representing Apostolic Legateship of Norman Kings of Sicily, between them. However, the first identification seems more likely.)
Around the corner, on the west face of the capital, is a scene with a bearded figure at the left and a crowned figure (possibly King David) on the right.
 

11:26 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view, from east side, of west and north sides, with cathedral south bell tower and cupola and Monte Caputo in background.



11:27 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - capital on  east side with Atlantes.

In architecture, Atlantes, the plural of Atlas*, are stone architectural supports in the form of muscular men. They have elevated arms and often have the upper part of the body bend forward to reflect the weight of the load on their shoulders. Sometimes, they may have elevated arms

*In Greek mythology, Zeus condemned Atlas to stand at the western edge of the Earth and hold up the sky on his shoulders. A common misconception today is that Atlas was forced to hold the Earth on his shoulders, but Classical art shows him holding the celestial spheres, not the terrestrial globe. (Atlant can also refer to the image of a muscular, naked male in Roman and Greek architecture.) 


11:27 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - another face of same capital on  east side with Atlantes.



11:27 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - capital on  east side, with Adam and Eve with the serpent on face at left.

Adam and Eve are shown naked next to the Tree of Knowledge. Eve reaches for the forbidden fruit.
 

11:28 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - view, from northeast corner, of south side with remains of a wing of the original monastery.



11:30 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - west face of capital on  north side, with part of the biblical story of Samson; this face shows the wedding feast of Samson at the left and Samson slaughtering Philistines on the right; around the corner to the right is a scene about Samson in Gaza.

This capital depicts episodes from the life on Samson. The west face of the double capital combines two separate incidents. The pilar in the middle has his name as "SANSON." On the left is the biblical story of the wedding feast of Samson and a Philistine woman (Judges, Chapter 14), where he tells 30 of his Philistine guests a riddle, giving them seven days to find the answer. They are about to fail but then extort the answer from his wife. When Samson discovers this, he kills the 30 men, and his wife marries the companion who had been his best man. On the right, Samson slaughters those Philistines. Later on (Judges, Chapter 15). Samson slays a thousand Philistines using the jawbone of an ass. The Philistines are also designated with an inscription “FILIIS STEIS.”
 
Around the corner to the right is another scene from the biblical story of Samson (Judges 16: 1-3): “Once Samson went to Gaza, where he saw a prostitute and visited her. The people of Gaza were told, ‘Samson has come here,’ and they surrounded him with an ambush at the city gate all night long. And all the night they waited, saying, ‘At morning light we will kill him.’ Samson lay there until midnight. Then he rose at midnight, seized the doors of the city gate and the two gateposts, and tore them loose, bar and all. He hoisted them on his shoulders and carried them to the top of the ridge opposite Hebron.”
At the far right corner of the capital is Samson carrying the gate away. The face to the right of that corner also depicts two scenes from the life of Samson. On the left, after Samson tells the secret of his strength (his unshorn head), he is captured and blinded. On the right, he is once more endowed with his strength, which he uses to pull down the house of the Philistines, killing both them and himself. The Latin inscription between these two scenes reads “P<RO> ANIMA MEA” (For the salvation of my soul).
 

11:30 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - another face of capital on  north side, with another part of the biblical story of Samson; on the corner at the left is Samson carrying the gate, and on the pilar at the center of the face at the right is the inscription ending in "ANIMA MEA." The scene to the left of that pilar shows Samson being captured and blinded, and the one to the right shows Samson pulling down the house on the Philistines.



MT 11:30 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - mosaic on columns, close up.



11:32 AM - Monreale: Cathedral Cloister - more palm trees in the cloister garden, one with white ball in center (telephoto 130 mm).

Having completed our circuit of the cloister, Don and MT elected to take a tour of the cathedral roof. As we went around the cloister, we had seen people walking around up there. Earlier, when visiting the cathedral interior, we had seen a counter for getting tickets for this. Lara and Chiara stayed in the cloister at ground level.


MT 11:04 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - ticket counter for roof.

At the southwest corner of the nave is an access to 180 steps that lead up to the cathedral roof. Some passages are narrow and cramped but allow visitors to walk along the upper walls around the church. Walkways also lead around the apse of the cathedral.


11:37 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - painting of Madonna and Child on wall near ticket counter for tour of roof.

The Madonna Hodegetria (Virgin and Child) panel painting was, according to tradition, originally commissioned for private devotion by King William II of Sicily (ruled 1166-1189), founder of the Monreale Cathedral. It is one of the earliest examples of medieval painting in Sicily. For a long time, it was considered an icon, but recent research recognized that it represents a Romanesque panel strictly linked to the Greek manner, dating from the end of the 12th century to the first half of the 13th century. The panel is a variant of the classic Hodegetria: it represents the Virgin holding the Christ Child on her left side while pointing to him with her right hand. The Greek hodegetria means “she who points the way."
 

11:39 AM - Monreale: Cathedral - view down onto top of baptismal font we passed while going up the steps to the roof roof.



11:42 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view down into cloister, toward south side with remains of original monastery; square structure in southwest corner encloses the fountain.



MT 11:42 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view down onto cupola on south side of cathedral (possibly the baptistery?).



11:42 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view down, from narrow walkway, onto cupola on south side of cathedral (possibly the baptistery?) and cloister garden.



MT 11:44 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - MT at door of walkway with arrow pointing right to narrow interior passage.



11:44 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - MT in narrow passage.



11:45 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - MT in narrow passage.



11:46 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - stairs up to top of apse, with mosaic decorations.

The exterior of the cathedral apse has varied decorations formed by bright tufa (a variety of limestone) and black lava stone.


11:46 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view, from top of apse, of city of Monreale.



MT 11:46 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view, from top of apse, of city of Monreale (telephoto 116 mm).



11:47 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - turret at top of apse.



MT 11:49 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - Don waving from turret at top of apse.



2005 - Monreale: Cathedral roof - MT on steps up to turret at top of apse in 2005.



11:47 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view, from top of apse, to more of city, uphill.



MT 11:51 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - other side of apse, with mosaic decorations.



11:51 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - wider view of that side of apse, with mosaic decorations; MT's elbow at right, as she took her photo of the same.



11:52 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - MT in another narrow passage.



MT 11:53 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view, in same direction as Don's 11:47 photo, of nearby Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and city uphill.



11:53 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - view down into Piazza Vittorio Emanuele.



MT 11:54 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - Don squeezing past other visitors near small belfry at top of unfinished north bell tower.



11:53 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - small belfry at top of unfinished north bell tower.



11:54 AM - Monreale: Cathedral roof - another view down into Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, with closer view of fountain (mild telephoto 58 mm).



12:17 PM - Monreale: Cathedral - west façade with portico.

Back together with Lara and Chiara, we must have had lunch (given the time between photos). Then, Lara wanted to visit the Cathedral's gift shop/book store. On the way there, we passed through the Arco degli Angeli.


1:00 PM - Monreale: Cathedral - MT, Lara, and Chiara walking down narrow street toward Arco degli Angeli.



1:00 PM - Monreale: Cathedral - sign for "Arco degli Angeli" to the right of the arch entrance.

The Arco degli Angeli (Arch of the Angels) is on a narrow pedestrian walkway, adjacent to the cathedral (to the left of the entrance), that leads to the intricate, polychromatic stonework decorating the cathedral’s triple apse. It connects the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and Via Arcivescovado (Archbishop Street). Passing through the arch, pedestrians can breathe in the Arab-Normal culture imprinted on the marble walls.


1:00 PM - Monreale: Cathedral - Chiara, Lara, and MT at entrance to Arco degli Angeli.

Don joked that they were "arch angels."


MT 1:01 PM - Monreale: Cathedral - Chiara, Lara, and Don at entrance to Arco degli Angeli.



1:02 PM - Monreale: Cathedral - sign on wall inside Arco degli Angeli.

The sign on one interior wall of the arch reads “All those people who devotedly recite a Hail Mary to this image of piety will earn 40 days of indulgence granted by Monsignor Giovanni Roano, Archbishop of Monreale.” In December 2016, the Monreale Press reported that the large slate depicting the Madonna had been missing from the arch for over 90 days and that a small chapel almost adjacent to the treasure rooms had preserved the effigy of Mary enthroned with Child, with two little angels crowning the depiction.

Giovanni Roano e Correionero (1615-1703) was appointed Archbishop of Monreale in 1673; he had been Archbishop of Cefalù since 1660.


1:03 PM - Monreale: Cathedral - view, down  pedestrian walkway from Arco degli Angeli, to cathedral apse, with turret at top.


Monreale: exterior of cathedral apse (By Bjs (Own Work) at https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Monreale-bjs-17.jpg).

 
The three apses are closely connected with each other by an exquisite pattern of interlacing ogival arches in an Arab-inspired rhythm, and geometric medallions, offering an elegant counterpoint to the austere Norman architecture. The geometrical designs in inlaid white tufa (a variety of limestone) and black lava stone (a technique called intarsia) and the sophisticated use of small marble columns to support the arches add vibrancy and color. This eastern backside of the cathedral was decorated by Islamic artisans, in contrast to the Greek artists who decorated the interior.
 

Monreale: exterior of cathedral apse (By Ludvig14 (Own Work) at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Monreale_Cathedral_009_6460.jpg).


Back in Palermo, we asked the desk clerk at Hotel Garibaldi about a nearby church where we could attend a Saturday evening mass, since we would have a long car trip on Sunday. He recommended the Church of St. Peter and Paul, which was only a few blocks away (2 blocks east to Via Roma, then south 5-6 blocks, then right about 1 block).


1:03 PM - Palermo: Church of St. Peter and Paul - façade.

The Chiesa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo (Church of Saints Peter and Paul) is a marvelous piece of Renaissance architecture. Highlights include its façade and three frescoed apses. The façade is made of blocks of volcanic tufa stone; it has three entrance doors with pointed arches. The central door shows Gothic influences; above its pointed arch is a coat of arms with the symbols of St. Peter (tiara and keys) and St. Paul (a sword). On a ledge above the lower part of the church are the names of the saints to whom it is dedicated, along with the year of its construction. The interior consists of three naves. The central apse has a painting of St. Peter, Jesus, and St. Paul; on the left are David, the prophets Jeremiah and Ezekiel; on the right are Isaiah, Daniel, and Solomon; above, there are archangels Gabriel and Michael. The left apse is dedicated to St. Benedict of Norica, and the right apse is dedicated to the Madonna del Perpetuo Soccorso (Madonna of Perpetual Help).
Construction of the church was completed in 1879. From 1880 to 1940, the church was the chapel of the nearby Benedictine monastery. In 1941, due to the reduced number of nuns, it was ceded to the Archdiocese of Palermo and became a parish church.



MT 3:53 PM - Palermo: Church of St. Peter and Paul - "bride" and her father walking from car toward church (mild telephoto 68 mm).

At first, we thought a wedding was about to take place, but  soon found that it was an elaborate 25th anniversary celebration, with all the appearance of a wedding and a renewal of marriage vows. Apparently, this type of celebration was quite normal. This took place in the framework of a normal Saturday evening mass.


MT 5:46 PM - Palermo: Church of St. Peter and Paul - façade, with clear view of ledge above the lower part of the church, with the names of the saints to whom the church is dedicated, along with the year of its construction (in Roman numerals); above the pointed arch of the central door is the coat of arms with the symbols of St. Peter and St. Paul.



MT 5:54 PM - Palermo: Church of St. Peter and Paul - main altar in central apse (mild telephoto 53 mm).



MT 6:32 PM - Palermo: Church of St. Peter and Paul - "bride" and "groom" with priest at altar (telephoto 96 mm).

Back at Hotel Garibaldi, we went to dinner, included in half-board, at 7:30 pm. As with all but one of the four hotels on our itinerary, we had to pay extra for wine.


MT 7:41 PM - Palermo: Hotel Garibaldi - wine with dinner; Lara in background.



MT 8:18 PM - Palermo: Hotel Garibaldi - first course: salad with octopus.



MT 8:18 PM - Palermo: Hotel Garibaldi - second course: fish.

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